Holy cow this is good!
This is one of Bon Appetit's "Best of" recipes.
It's more of a cake with a delicious salty maple butter instead of frosting.
Nonstick vegetable oil spray
2½ cups all-purpose flour
2 tsp. ground cinnamon
2 tsp. kosher salt
1 tsp. baking powder
½ tsp. baking soda
½ tsp. freshly grated nutmeg
⅛ tsp. ground cloves
2 large eggs
1 15-oz. can pumpkin purée
1 Tbsp. plus 1 tsp finely grated ginger (from about one 3" piece fresh ginger)
1½ cups plus 1 Tbsp. sugar
1 cup extra-virgin olive oil
½ cup raw pumpkin seeds
1½ sticks (¾ cup) unsalted butter, room temperature
¼ cup pure maple syrup
¾ tsp. flaky sea salt, plus more for serving
Preheat oven to 325°. Lightly coat a 9x5" loaf pan with nonstick spray. Line bottom of pan with parchment, leaving a generous overhang on both long sides.
Whisk flour, cinnamon, kosher salt, baking powder, baking soda, nutmeg, and cloves in a medium bowl.
Whisk eggs, pumpkin purée, ginger, and 1½ cups sugar in a large bowl. Stream in oil, whisking constantly until mixture is homogeneous. Gently fold half of dry ingredients into egg mixture until no dry spots remain. Repeat with remaining dry ingredients, stirring to combine but being careful not to overmix.
Transfer batter to prepared pan; smooth top with a spatula. Scatter pumpkin seeds over batter, pressing lightly to adhere. Sprinkle seeds with remaining 1 Tbsp. sugar. Bake bread, rotating pan once halfway through, until a tester inserted into the center comes out clean, 80–90 minutes.
Let cool slightly, then run a knife or small offset spatula around pan to help loosen bread. Using overhang, transfer bread to a wire rack and let cool.
Do Ahead: Bread can be baked 4 days ahead. Cover tightly with plastic wrap and keep at room temperature.
Using an electric mixer on medium-high speed, beat butter in a large bowl, scraping down sides, until light and fluffy, 5–6 minutes. Add maple syrup and ¾ tsp. sea salt and beat, scraping down sides of bowl once more, just until incorporated.
Transfer maple butter to a small bowl; season with more sea salt.
Do Ahead: Maple butter can be made 5 days ahead. Cover tightly with plastic wrap and chill. Let come to room temperature before using.