Holy Cow! What a Ride!

​India was never a place that I had a huge desire to see.  I had several friends complain about how when they were there it was filthy, loud, smelly, crowded and overall horrible.  They couldn't wait to have their picture taken in front of the Taj Mahal and get the hell out of there.  But my husband couldn't stop talking about going there.  All those things people were complaining about was exactly what he wanted to see.  So for his 50th birthday, I decided to plan an India trip for him.  I figured this was something he really wanted and it wasn't for me but I would obviously go with him.  I was lucky enough to find a few friends who felt the same way about India that Mike did and knew that this would be a once in a lifetime adventure.  So I had my group of adventurous friends and the planning began.  Nine months of planning felt like a lifetime but the hundreds of hours researching, meetings and dreaming turned into one of the most memorable crazy adventures any of us could have hoped for.  India was nothing I imagined and everything I love about traveling.  We were all able to look above what others complained about and found the fantastic, soul touching beauty that is in the most colorful country in the world, India.

This is my adventurous group of friends.  Scott Pearson, Milo Martinez, my husband Mike, Harold Lemire, Beth Alton, myself and Mariana Aliano.  When people tried to talk my friends out of going and told them they were crazy for going to such a place, they were never dissuaded.
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dubai
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We started our trip in Dubai because once we found out that Dubai was where were we would have a layover, we all agreed that we would have to get off the plane and take a quick two night peek.  ​

New Delhi
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​New Delhi was our second stop on the trip and I was expecting to walk through the airport doors and be hit with shock and awe.  But that wasn't the case.  Besides the constant honking of horns and driving on the opposite of the road, I was actually kinda bummed. I had built up in my mind that my head was just going to explode with many different stimuli.  That was yet to come. 
 We were meet by Raman and Shalindra our representative and tour guide for our trip from Quo Vadis Travel.  They with my travel agent, Dori Peterson from Cadence Travel helped make our entire trip seamless.

The Lotus Temple

Walking through the ancient streets of Chandni Chowk gave us our first glimpse of the chaotic wonderment that we would be getting used to over the next few weeks. ​

Humayun's Tomb

Qutub Minar
An ancient Hindu monument.

Varanasi
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Here comes the shock and awe!!!!!

​Varanasi was one of the places we knew that if we didn't get to, we would be missing one of the most important and holy places in all of India.  It's a place where each year millions of Hindu people make a pilgrimage to the River Ganges just to dip into the holy waters to pray, give thanks, bathe, wash their water buffalo and clothes and burn their loved  ones on the most holy and popular funeral pyres in India before sending their ashes down the river.  They believe that by doing this you will be released from the cycle of birth and rebirth and attain liberation.   
 We were advised several times to watch your step but never look down.  There would too many things you would miss if you were constantly worried about what you were stepping on. Walking through the ancient streets of Chandni Chowk gave us our first glimpse of the chaotic wonderment that we would be getting used to over the next few weeks. 

​There are no liquor stores as we know them here in the States.  They are called English Wine Shops and we became very familiar with them.  You walk up to the small hot room, stand in front of the gate and tell the man behind the bars what kind of beer or scotch you want.  He tells you how much, you pay and he hands you your fun juice through a small hole in the gate.  Off you go.

This was our hotel right on the banks of the Ganges with spectacular views for miles up the river.
Suryauday Haveli

This is the more modern, cheaper electric crematorium on the banks of the river. ​

​Our day guide for Varanasi, Rahi which means "someone who walks with you."  This was the perfect name for him.  He was born and raised in Varanasi and highly educated.  He talked as if he was preaching and constantly quoting poets and songwriters and had us in stitches over his statements.
"It is a dark time, the sun is coming, soon it will be light time, this is a very auspicious hour."
If you have ever seen the movie or read the book The Kite Runner you would smile at the dozen upon dozens of little boys scattered along the rooftops, ghats (steps leading to the water) and back streets flying their kites and actually trying to cut the strings of other boys kites with their own.

​Rahi walked us through the back streets of Varanasi which would not be possible without someone who knew where they were going.  If you ventured in by yourself, you may never come out.
The streets are narrow, dark and crowded.  The ground is covered with broken concrete, cow dung, piles of garbage, open baby diapers, mystery fluids and dogs with tiny puppies every 10 feet.  You walk with your head on a constant swivel because there is so much beauty above the ground if you choose to see it. 
 I actually had the wind knocked out of me once because while looking up into a window I walked straight into the horn of a water buffalo.  They don't give way.

​This is the main crematorium that is going 24 hours a day.  They have an "eternal" flame that has been said to be burning for centuries.  Every funeral pyre here is started with this sacred flame.
At times they have dozens of funeral pyres burning at once.

​The nightly evening ceremonies along the river give you the feeling of being at a rock concert in boats.   Hindu priests perform choreographed rituals set to the sounds of beating drums and bells.

Agra
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​Getting from Varanasi into Agra was probably one of our most memorable nights.  We had an evening overnight train ride from Varanasi to Agra with a multiple hours white knuckle van ride to get to the train station.
In India, driving is an experience that will have your eyes bugging out of your head.  There don't seem to be any rules except for "Don't crash!"  The traffic lines are just for decoration.  Honking is a way of letting everyone know you're next to them because people do not use side or rear view mirrors.  Signaling is nonexistent.  No need to stop when you want to merge into traffic, you just melt in with traffic and if you're in a real hurry just drive on the wrong side of the road, if you honk, people will move out of your way.  Oh and make sure to go around all the cows, buffalo, dogs, camels, goats, and pedestrians wandering aimlessly in the streets.  It all seems to work somehow.
After an exceptionally stressful, running late drive to catch a night train, we needed to make sure we could sleep on a train.  Below is the remedy. 
I won't mention the bathroom situation.  Well... let me just say that if a train is crossing over a bridge, nobody will dare be under the bridge at the time of crossing for fear of being "rained" upon.

​After getting off the train at 3:45 am and not having a hotel to check into yet, might as well stand in line pre-dawn to see the Taj Mahal.

I have seen hundred of pictures of the Taj Majal in my life time but these just don't do justice to how truly beautiful it is.

Fantastic arches at the Agra Fort.

Ranthambore
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​When planning this trip, I had one requirement.  Tiger Safari.  I have done several in Africa already and I wasn't going to go all the way over to India and miss out on this event.  We were able to do 4 safaris in Ranthambore National Park. Although the park has beautiful scenery, the wildlife viewing leaves much to be desired, unless you want to look at deer after deer after deer.  Don't get me wrong, they are beautiful but I can see deer at home.  Plus I'm spoiled from the African safaris I've been fortunate enough to experience already.
There are very few tigers left in the wild and viewing one is a very fortunate event.  We did get to see one briefly but when we did it was with dozens of other jeeps and several of what I like to call super jeeps.  Giant jeeps that hold 25 people.  Once a tiger was spotted absolute craziness started.  Our guides started yelling and screaming.  Drivers we driving recklessly, positioning for a better spot on a narrow dirt road.  Super jeeps were backing up into the backs of our tiny jeep without a clue they were hitting us.  Tourists were standing up in the jeeps trying to get a better viewing.  It was all super disappointing and upsetting.  These were supposed to be professional guides and trackers.  Not even a little. 
On a brighter note, we stayed at the beautiful Khem Villas.  A three-night oasis surrounded by nature and the sounds of birds.

This is how the majority of the tiger viewing was experienced.  Through the jeeps of others.

​Viewing the 1000-year-old Ranthambore Fort along the cliffs made you wish you could have seen it in its full glory.

Jaipur
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This was a bit concerning but not uncommon site.  There must have been 20 children literally spilling out of this jeep.  This is how they sit in it while on the freeway!!

Inside the city palace complex at the Amer Fort.
I loved how our guide yelled at dozens of tourists to "Get out of the way!!!!" so that we could get this shot of the beautiful peacock door.

​Our hotel in Jaipur was gorgeous!!!  Samode Haveli Hotel was once a palace and is still just as beautiful as I'm sure it once was.

Here is the traditional way of making naan bread.  In a tandoor oven.  Who knew?

Our last night with our guide and good friend Shalindra, AKA Shampoo.
​We still have contact with him years after this trip.

Mumbai
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​Our view from our room through the window mesh at the Taj Majal Palace.  

​Tower of the Gateway of India.

Visiting the ancient cave temples on Elephant Island.

​We were fortunate enough to be able to do a 4-hour "Slum Tour" through the largest slum in Asia.  Dharavi Slum.
Unfortunately, we were not allowed to take pictures inside the slums but the images are now permanent in our minds.
The tour was more than "look at how they live" but "look at what they have done with what they have."  It's an actual functioning city with a hospital, fire department, police department, post offices and schools.
Walking through the dark narrow back streets in the residential section gave me an enormous appreciation for what can be accomplished with so little.

 Kerala
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​After 2 weeks of touring around India at a breakneck speed, we finally got to slow it down and relax down south in the state of Kerala.  An area known for its beautiful tranquil backwaters.
When we arrived at the airport we were meet by a new representative letting us know that there was a small problem.  All the public workers started a 48-hour strike that morning.  Driving was not an option.  He had his tire punctured and car attacked on the way to pick us up.  Our hotel was a two-hour drive away.  Staying at the airport for two days looked like a reality for our future.  Then our guy who looked like Bruno said if we were willing to risk it he would try to get us to our hotel that was two hours away.  Why not!!! For the first hour, we drove on the roads as the only car for as far as the eye could see.  After the crazy crowded streets, we were used to this was exceptionally strange.  Finally, we can upon a roadblock with dozens of young Indians rushing up to the car and we found ourselves in a scene from Argo.  Men beating on the car and angrily screaming at our driver while he calmly spoke with them pleading his case of trying to get these nice tourists to their destination.  This being the case was probably the only reason we got through.  I don't think they want any negative press from foreigners.  So with a few more angry words and an angry pounding of the hood we were allowed to pass.  
After that.....  all was good!
And relaxing.

First stop, Fort Cochin where they are famous for their ancient Chinese fishing Nets.
We stayed at Old Harbour Hotel. 

​This was a big deal for us, finding a truck with giant ice blocks on it.  It was 90 plus degrees with equal humidity.  Too bad there was no way to get these back to the hotel.
Mike meeting some of his Indian Police peeps.

​Next, we headed to Kumarakom to stay at the Coconut Lagoon Resort to do absolutely nothing except drink early during the day, read in the pool and watch thousands of bats fly into the night sky at 6:57 every night.

​After an hour backwaters tour on this houseboat that we had to ourselves, we headed to our final destination of the trip, Marari Beach Resort for absolute nothingness. 

Traveling has become quite the obsession for me.  Mike is constantly telling me to stop planning trips while I'm actually on one. " Enjoy what you're experiencing now."  "Be here."
He's right of course.  Even though getting home from such faraway destinations is grueling (43 hours from leaving our last hotel to walking into our front door without ever once being supine) it allows the memories of the trip to set in permanently.  Changing you in a way that was unknown to you before you left.  The bonds and experiences you make with the friends you share travel with are forever.  It becomes like an addictive drug.  Always making you wanting more.