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CHEFCHAOUEN, MOROCCO

3/8/2020

1 Comment

 
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A week before the 2020 pandemic went into full worldwide effect, I was leisurely strolling through the streets of Chefchaouen, Morocco. I was relaxed and in my happy place, travelling, exploring, discovering. It was a week later, on this same trip, that everything would change for everyone, everywhere. Until I write about our experience of being stuck in Morocco, I'm just going to write about my time spent in Chefchaouen. 

I'm trying to think of what I would say to someone who asks me if they should make the trip to Chefchaouen while visiting Morocco. You will read that it's an Instagrammers dream. They say Chefchaouen is unlike any city you’ve seen before and it's on many a bucket list of places to see before you die.
Here's what I thought.  
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It's not really that unique. I mean, sure, it's beautiful but there a quite a few other villages around the world that are blue. There is Jodhpur in India, all blue. Burano in Italy, all blue. Juzcar in Spain, all blue. How about Santorini in Greece. Not all blue but white and blue. Guatape in Colombia, all kinds of crazy colors. You get what I mean. But do you need to add it to your Moroccan itinerary? Well, If you have the time, yes. Do it. It's a beautiful charming village with lots of interesting history. It's irresistibly photogenic which is what I think many people travel for these days. It's definitely less frenetic than in other cities such as Marrakech and Fes.
​

Let me say what you may experience that I haven't read in other blog posts.
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It's touristy. Very touristy. On the more popular streets like Callejon El Asri, you will see lines of Instagrammers waiting to take their "look at me in my flowy dress with my cute hat on" pictures. It's definitely an influencer-perfect spot. I'm no different. I'm out there taking pictures and posting them as well. But I'm trying to get a feel for the city. I'm soaking up that feeling that I'm constantly chasing. That feeling of "Toto, I have a feeling we're not in Kansas anymore".  It seems like so many of these selfie picture takers are there just to get one more picture of themselves in a beautiful place rather than discovering and appreciating being in another part of the world that is different from home.  It's not a negative thing I suppose. It's possible that the surge in popularity by social media has helped jump-start the economy.
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It's much easier getting here if you're able to hire a driver and maybe even a guide. Otherwise, you will be taking a bus from the major cities. (CTM is the bus service).
The village is small. It perfect for a day trip.  It doesn't have many attractions aside from the blue walls, the Kasbah (once a prison and now a museum and the only thing that isn't blue) and the medina, all which can be explored fully in a few hours. I would suggest at least staying one night.  
​You've come this far, might as well relax. 

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The village becomes mysterious and much quieter when all the day-trippers leave. It's especially quiet midweek. On Sundays, all the locals bring their families out to enjoy their own beautiful city. 
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To get this village to myself, I would get up early and stroll through the empty streets before the buses arrived.  It was just me and the locals. You get a chance to see how life really is before the rush of tourists. Women cleaning their stoops. Men wheeling carts of vegetables up a blue alley. Kids rushing to school. People setting up their colorful displays of popular souvenirs. Dozens of cats looking for a meal. 
Several times I was told by young men that I was going the wrong way. How did they know where I was going? I was trying to get lost. That was my plan. I want to see what's down and around every corner. They can be persistent though. "Lady, this is the wrong way. Please follow me and I will show you where it is".  I only assume "it" is one of those Instagram streets and that they would ask for money once they brought me there.
It's a very safe town, so I felt very comfortable walking the streets by myself.  Unlike Fes, that isn't a place you want to walk alone at night.
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You won't find alcohol here. You're most likely aware that Morocco is a Muslim nation. Tourists are allowed to drink indoors at their hotel bar and a few tourist areas.  You can bring your own alcohol into the country in limited amounts. Hitting up the dutyfree at the airport is a good idea. That's what we did. You can also find alcohol sold in some supermarkets, like Carefour, in separate rooms in the store. There are no large supermarkets in Chefchaouen, so If you like a beer or a glass of wine at the end of the day, you won't find it here.  
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If you want to smoke Kif (finely chopped marijuana and indigenous tobacco) well, Chefchaouen is the smoking capital. Most of the men in my group had men approach them and whisper to them, aking if they wanted Kif. They all said no every time and the men would walk away. It's illegal but apparently commonplace. From what I researched, It's 10 years in prison if found smoking it. Seems a bit extreme. You might get out of it if you offer to pay a fine on the spot. Who knows how much that might be? I also read that tourists are sometimes made examples of for smoking Kif. I can only assume what that would mean.
Good luck, if that's your thing.
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Moroccans are extremely gracious and welcoming. You will always be welcomed with a big production of the pouring of mint tea, everywhere you go. I always felt bad because I'm not a fan of hot tea on a hot day or any day for that matter. (This is where the cold glass of white wine would come in nicely). But I felt it was rude to not accept it because it's such a proud and visually beautiful custom. Hopefully, you will make up for my lack of enthusiasm over horrid tea.  
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Cats. Oh my goodness, the cats! There are so many cats! Unfortunately, the village reeks of cat piss and shit.  There are cats on every stoop. Under every bush. In every box that's been thrown away. On every roof. In every crevasse. It's just how it is. If you're a cat lover, I assume you'll be fine. I think you know how if feel.
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So is Chefchaouen a place I would recommend? I'll ask you this. Do you want to see every painted shade of blue known to man? Periwinkle, cobalt, sky, royal, turquoise, cyan, azure, tiffany blue? You'll see it here. Do you want to see some of the most beautiful and mysterious doors and alleys in the world? Do you want to see the most vibrant and interesting wares for sale? Do you want to hear the call to prayer echo off the Rif Mountains? Do you want to leave your version of Kansas and get lost in an ancient city?
​ Of course you do.
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1 Comment
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    I started this blog so that I could document and share my adventures in travel, photography, food and the things that inspired me. It's a work in progress as are most things in life.

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      • Grilled Vegetables with Sun Dried Tomatoes and Goat Cheese Pasta Salad
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      • Power Protein Bowl
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      • Broccoli Slaw
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      • Border Pintos
      • Mexican Street Style Cauliflower
      • Roasted Fennel with Parmesan
      • French Flageolet Beans
      • Roasted Beets and Carrots with Goat Cheese Dressing
      • Mexican Street Corn Salad
      • Vegetarian Chorizo Tacos
      • Chipotle Quiona Sweet Potato Tacos with Pomegranate Salsa
      • Thomas Keller's Creamed Pearl Onions
      • Spaghetti Squash & Black Bean Tacos with Queso Fresco From the Smitten Kitchen Cookbook
      • Warm Winter-Vegetable Salad
      • Miznon's Cauliflower
      • Roasted Butternut Squash Casserole
      • Bacon Roasted Roots with Rosemary Honey
      • Summer Squash Gratin
    • Chicken >
      • Cashew Chicken
      • French Chicken Casserole
      • Sichuan Bang Bang Chicken
      • Pollo Asado
      • Sweet-and-Spicy Chicken
      • Kung Pao Chicken
      • Spicy Chicken Stir-Fry With Celery and Peanuts
      • Instant Pot Butter Chicken
      • Stewed Chicken Legs and Thighs with Fresh Herbs and Olives
      • Chicken Satay With Peanut Sauce
      • Simple Chicken Tacos
      • Greek Chicken
      • Cashew Chicken Stir Fry
      • Korean Chicken Bowls
      • Korean Chicken Kabobs
      • Baked Chicken With Potatoes, Cherry Tomatoes and Herbs
      • Jalapeno Dijon Grilled Chicken Thighs
      • Crispy Mustard-Roasted Chicken
      • Coq au Vin in the Instant Pot
      • Caramelized Black Pepper Chicken
      • Chicken Buddha Bowl
      • Greek Avocado Chicken Salad
      • Chicken & Broccoli Quinoa Casserole
      • Pretzel-Crusted Chicken
      • Orzo Chicken Salad With Tarragon Dressing
      • Creamy Dijon Chicken Quinoa
      • Chicken Tikka Masala
      • Cheesy Chicken Quinoa Mexican Bake
    • Meats >
      • Filipino Pork Adobo
      • Swedish Meatballs
      • Birria Tacos
      • Pork Adobo Tacos
      • Filet Mignon with Mustard & Mushrooms
      • Pork Adobada
      • Sartù Di Riso
      • Turkey Meat Loaf with Sage Gravy
      • Tri-Tip Steak With Tiger Bite Sauce
      • Pork-and-Ricotta Meatballs in Parmesan Broth
      • Red Wine Braised Short Ribs.
      • Beef Bourguigonne Potpie
      • ​Turkey and Sausage Stuffed Sweet Potatoes
      • Seared Steak with Brussels Sprouts and Almonds
    • Fish >
      • Cajun Honey Butter Salmon
      • Bang Bang Shrimp Tacos
      • Grilled Salmon with Lemon Relish
      • Grilled Glazed Salmon Sandwiches with Bacon
      • Cedar Plank Salmon with Blistered Tomatoes
      • Slow-Baked Salmon with Lemon and Thyme
      • Seared Scallops with Herb-Butter Pan Sauce
    • Noodles >
      • Birria Ramen
      • Thai Coconut Curry Raman
      • Chicken Khao Soi
      • Thai Peanut Chicken Ramen
      • Spicy-Sweet Sambal Pork Noodles
      • Beef & Broccoli with Udon Noodles
      • Crispy Caramelized Pork Ramen Noodle Soup
      • Instant Pot Pho
      • Thai Coconut Curry Noodle Soup
      • Thai Red Curry Noodle Soup
      • Thai Green Curry Chicken Soup
      • Pork Dan Dan Noodles
      • Thai Peanut Chicken Noodles
      • Thai Shrimp Noodles
      • Spicy Peanut Noodles with Chili Garlic Oil
      • Spicy Garlic Butter Noodles
    • Pasta >
      • Family Spaghetti from The Bear
      • Baked Feta Pasta
      • Cheater Chicken Parmesan Pasta
      • Spaghetti al Limone with Chef Frank Prisinzano
      • Torta di Rigatoni
      • Cheesy Lemony Zucchini Orzo
      • Bolognese
      • Butternut Squash Baked Pasta
      • Cacio e Pepe with Arugula and Lemon
      • Handmade Semolina Pasta
      • Adult Mac & Cheese
      • Lemon Garlic Shrimp Pasta
      • Pasta with Sausage, Basil & Mustard
      • Greek Lasagna (Pastitsio)
      • Spaghetti with Warm Bacon Mushroom Vinaigrette
    • Pizza >
      • Nancy Silverton's Pizza Dough
      • White Mushroom Pizza
      • Roasted Garlic and Artichoke Pizza
      • Beet Pesto Pizza with Kale and Goat Cheese
      • Caramelized Butternut Squash, Crispy Kale & Fontina Pizza
      • Shrimp Pizza with Spicy Peanut Butter Sauce
      • Walnut Pesto Pizza with Coppa and Roma Tomatoes
    • Sandwiches & Paninis >
      • Grilled Ham & Gruyere Cheese Sandwich
      • Carnitas and Apricot Preserve Grilled Cheese Sandwich
      • Feta, Yam & Candied Bacon Panini
      • PB & J with BACON
      • B.L.A.S.T.
      • Squash, Manchego and Balsamic-Onion Grilled Cheese
      • Beet and Arugula Grilled Cheese
      • South West Spicy Chicken Panini
      • Veggie Sandwich
      • Paninis that need attention
    • Burgers >
      • Chicken Burgers with Red Cabbage and Apple Slaw
      • Turkey Burgers with Goat Cheese and Citrus Glaze
      • Thai Curry Turkey Burgers
      • Chicken Burgers with Rosemary Mayonnaise
      • Truffle Burgers With Truffle Aioli
      • Chicken Ranch Bacon Burgers
      • Peanut Butter, Bourbon Bacon Jam, Pimento Cheese Burgers
      • Asian Turkey Burgers with Sriracha Mayo
      • Black Bean Burgers
    • Bad Ass Bars >
      • Spiced Banana Date Muffins
      • Tony's Peanut Butter Protein Bars
      • Melissa's Kind Bars
      • Sesame-Peanut Bars
      • Trail Mix Granola Bars
      • Aussi Bites
    • Tarts & Galettes >
      • French Onion Tart with Bacon
      • Artichoke Tart
      • Zucchini & Goat Cheese Tart
      • Savory Mushroom & Goat Cheese Tart
      • Curried Squash Galette
      • Mushroom and Leek Galette with Gorgonzola
      • Beetroot & Feta Tart
    • Risotto >
      • Mushroom Risotto with Truffle Oil
      • Beet Risotto
    • Appetizers, Salsa & Sauces >
      • Chile Pasilla Oaxaqueno Salsa
      • Artichoke Tapenade
      • Salsa Verde
      • Milo's Mom's Salsa
      • Romesco Salsa
      • KC-Style Chipotle BBQ sauce
      • Green Olive Tapenade
      • Rosemary Roasted Cashews
      • Cilantro Chile Almond Dip
      • Cilantro Hummus
  • Must See Films
  • Rebecca's Page
    • Introducing Rebecca
    • Rebecca's First Vacation
    • Rebecca's Weekend with Bonnie
    • Family Weekend At Bubble Island (Cabo Azul)
    • Rebecca's Summer Weekend
    • Ezy Rollin Rebecca
    • Rebecca's weekend at Crystal Pier
  • World Color Challenge